July 16 Day 16

July 16 Day 16:

When you order a "Sour Toe Cocktail" at the Sourdough Saloon in Dawson City, you order something rather unusual. There's an old tradition here dating back to the  gold rush prospector days of putting a dead man's toe in someone's drink. If they drink it and touch their lips to the toe, they're accepted as one of the group. The gold prospectors are long gone, but the tourist prospectors remain, so the tradition continues. People actually will their severed toes to this place and they are stored in alcohol, and become mummified, very dark with a clearly visible toenail. As long as you drink the whiskey and touch your lips to the toe (biting and swallowing is strictly forbidden!) You are considered successful. The "Captain, who must witness this accomplishment, awards you with a Certificate of Merit that you take with you to cherish forever. Peach and I both earned our certificates. 

The Campbell Highway from Watson Lake to Carnacks, followed by the Klondike Highway from Carnacks to Dawson City, provided a rough, dusty ride, as expected. We were stopped for a half hour on the Klondike waiting to be escorted through a highway construction zone. Up here there are not options for detours because there are no other roads, so they escorted you on one lane through the earth movers and bulldozers while they're working. At one point on the Campbell we drove near an active wildfire and saw the billowing smoke rising a few hundred yards from us. We were a bit concerned that the road might be closed ahead, and a bit concerned by the fact I had five gallons of extra gasoline in the truck bed, but we got by OK. 

We stopped an hour north of Carmacks after about eight hours of driving, and camped on a turnoff at the edge of the road with nobody bothering us. 

Dawson City is a fun town. We took a walking tour through the historical section, the saloons, and brothels where the many prospectors spent their discoveries. 

After that, we joined a large celebration of the native people's 25th Anniversary of signing "The Agreement" with the Canadian Government for self governance. We were provided a large free meal of local fare and entertained by drumming, chanting and game playing. Peach and I tried to find somebody to donate money to for what we had received, but they aren't prepared for donations. When they couldn't find a person we could give it to in the crowded hall, we left and spent the money instead on the drink with the toe! 

Later today, we'll take the ferry across the Yukon, drive on the famed Top of the World Highway to the U.S border, and end up in Chicken Alaska for the night. We've heard big things about that place!

Captain presenting the toe to Peach before putting it in her glass.

Both of us drinking a toe-filled glass of Yukon Jack in Dawson City.